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I remember the first time I stood in a craft store, staring at a wall of DMC floss. I was overwhelmed. So many numbers, so many shades. I picked what I thought looked nice, but when I got home, the colors clashed. That project ended up in the back of my closet. Trust me, I've learned a lot since then. Now, with 8 years of designing cross stitch patterns, I can help you navigate the rainbow of DMC floss.

In this tutorial, I'll walk you through my process for picking a palette. I'll share the tools I use, the steps I take, and the mistakes I've made. By the end, you'll feel confident choosing colors for your next project. And honestly, it's not as hard as it seems.

Materials and Tools

Before we dive in, gather these supplies. I've listed specific brands and sizes I use, but you can adapt.

  • DMC embroidery floss (the standard 6-strand, 8.7 yards per skein) – I buy mine from local shops or online. A skein costs about €1.20 in France [1].
  • DMC color card (the printed one with real thread samples) – This is a must-have. It costs around €25 [1].
  • A pair of small, sharp scissors (I use Fiskars 4-inch) – About €8.
  • A needle (size 24 or 26 for cross stitch on 14-count Aida) – A pack of 6 costs €2.
  • A piece of white Aida fabric (14-count, at least 20 cm x 20 cm) – €3 for a 50 cm x 50 cm piece.
  • A notebook or app for notes – I use a simple notebook and a pencil.
  • Good lighting – A daylight lamp helps, but natural light works too.

Step 1: Understand the DMC Numbering System

DMC floss uses a numbering system that's not random. Each color has a unique number, and the numbers are grouped by color family. For example, 310 is black, 666 is bright red, and 704 is a bright yellow-green. The numbers don't indicate the exact shade, but they help you find related colors. I always keep a DMC color card handy. It shows the actual thread, not a printed approximation. The card organizes colors by number, but also by hue. This helps me see how colors relate. When I first started, I didn't know this. I bought floss by name, like "red" or "blue," and ended up with duplicates. Now, I check the numbers. For instance, 321 is a true red, while 347 is a darker red. They are different. The DMC website has a full list of colors with their numbers and names [1]. I suggest you print it or save it on your phone.

Pro Tip: Always buy one extra skein of each color. Dye lots can vary slightly, and you don't want to run out mid-project. I learned this the hard way when I ran out of 3843 (a bright blue) and the new skein was noticeably different [3].

Step 2: Choose a Color Scheme

Before you pick individual colors, decide on a scheme. Do you want complementary colors (opposite on the color wheel, like blue and orange)? Analogous (next to each other, like blue and green)? Or monochromatic (different shades of one color)? I often start with a photo or artwork for inspiration. For example, the hero image for this article shows a jar with burnt orange substance. That orange is similar to DMC 900 (burnt orange) or 946 (dark orange). I might pair it with a teal like 3809 for contrast. To pick a scheme, I use a color wheel. You can find free ones online. I also look at nature. A sunset has oranges, pinks, and purples. That's analogous. A beach has blue and sand (tan) – complementary. Once I have a scheme, I narrow down to 5-10 colors. For a small project, 5 is enough. For a larger one, 10-15. I write down the numbers and then check them against my fabric. White fabric makes colors pop; cream fabric softens them.

Pro Tip: Test your colors on a small scrap of your fabric. Stitch a few crosses with each color. See how they look together. I do this every time. It takes 10 minutes but saves hours of re-stitching [3].

Step 3: Use the DMC Color Card Effectively

The DMC color card is your best friend. It's a booklet with real thread samples. I use it to compare colors side by side. The card is organized by number, but also has a section by color family. I start by finding a color I love, then look at its neighbors. For example, if I like 334 (medium blue), I might also pick 322 (light blue) and 336 (dark blue) for shading. The card also shows the color name, like "peacock blue." That helps me remember. I also use the card to match colors to a photo. I hold the card next to the photo and find the closest match. It's not perfect, but it's close. The card costs about €25, but it's worth it. I've had mine for 5 years [1]. If you can't afford one, many online tools let you upload a photo and get DMC suggestions. But nothing beats the real thread. I also keep a list of my most-used colors: 310 (black), blanc (white), 3799 (dark gray), 842 (light beige), and 500 (dark green). These are staples.

Pro Tip: Store your floss on bobbins in a box. I use Darice plastic bobbins (100 for €5) and a clear storage box. It keeps colors organized and prevents tangles [3].

Step 4: Consider the Fabric and Stitch Count

The fabric color affects how your floss looks. On white Aida, colors are bright. On black Aida, they glow. On cream, they are muted. I always stitch a small sample on the actual fabric. Also, consider the stitch count. A large area of one color will look different than a small accent. For a big area, I might use a slightly lighter shade to avoid it looking too heavy. For example, if I'm stitching a large sky, I might use 3752 (very light blue) instead of 3753 (light blue). The DMC website has a color guide that explains this [1]. Another thing: the number of strands. I usually use 2 strands on 14-count Aida. That gives good coverage. For finer details, I use 1 strand. For a thicker look, 3 strands. But that can make the stitches bulky. I test first.

Pro Tip: If you're stitching a portrait, pick a skin tone palette. DMC has a range: 948 (very light), 754 (light), 3778 (medium), 356 (tan), 3776 (dark). I use these for faces. They blend well [3].

Step 5: Finalize and Buy Your Floss

Once you have your list, buy your floss. I buy from local shops to support them, but online is cheaper. I compare prices. A skein is usually €1.20, but sales happen. I buy extra of the main colors. I also check dye lots. If possible, buy all skeins of one color at once. If not, buy from the same dye lot. The dye lot number is on the skein label. I once bought 10 skeins of 310 from different lots, and they were slightly different blacks. It was a nightmare. Now I check. After buying, I wind the floss on bobbins and label them. I use a fine-tip marker to write the number on the bobbin. Then I store them in numerical order. This saves time when stitching. I also keep a project bag with the pattern, fabric, and floss. I use a zippered pouch. It keeps everything together.

Pro Tip: Join a DMC floss swap group on Facebook or Ravelry. You can trade extra skeins with other stitchers. I've gotten rare colors this way [3].

Conclusion

Picking a DMC palette is a skill that improves with practice. I've made many mistakes, like that first clashing project. But now I enjoy the process. It's like painting with thread. Remember to use your color card, test on fabric, and trust your eyes. Which photo will you stitch next? Whatever your idea, we are here to help. Happy stitching!

Sources

💡 Try it yourself: Download our free Free Cross Stitch Pattern: Butterfly pattern and practice this technique.

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Claire Moreau — Fondatrice de Flossize

Passionnée de point de croix depuis 8 ans, Claire transforme vos photos en grilles personnalisées. Elle partage ici ses conseils et astuces pour vous aider à créer des motifs uniques.

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