Vous voulez en savoir plus sur How to Finish a Cross Stitch: Washing, Pressing, Framing ?

When I completed my first large cross stitch project, a colorful mandala on 14-count Aida, I was thrilled. Then I realized I had no idea how to finish it properly. I had spent 40 hours stitching, but the fabric was wrinkled, and there was a faint coffee stain from a late-night stitching session. I panicked. After years of experience, I've developed a reliable method to wash, press, and frame cross stitch pieces. Today, I'm sharing my process, including the mistakes I made so you can avoid them.

Let me walk you through the exact steps I use, with specific tools and measurements. Trust me, finishing is as important as stitching.

Materials and Tools

Before you start, gather these items. I've listed specific brands and sizes I use.

  • Mild soap: Orvus Paste or Dawn Ultra dish soap (a few drops). I prefer Orvus because it's pH-neutral and safe for threads [1].
  • Basin: A clean plastic tub or sink. I use a 30 cm x 20 cm plastic basin.
  • Towels: Two clean, white cotton towels (bath towel size, 70 cm x 140 cm). White prevents color bleeding onto your fabric.
  • Iron: A dry iron with adjustable temperature. I use a Rowenta DW5080.
  • Ironing board: With a clean cover.
  • Pressing cloth: A clean white cotton pillowcase or muslin cloth (at least 30 cm x 30 cm).
  • Acid-free mounting board: I use Crescent RagMat 4-ply (3 mm thick) cut to size.
  • Frame: Any standard frame with at least 2.5 cm depth. I often use IKEA FISKBO frames.
  • Pins: Stainless steel straight pins (e.g., Dritz 100-count).
  • Lace or batting: For padding, I use Warm & Natural cotton batting (100% cotton, 3 mm thick).

Step 1: Washing Your Cross Stitch

Fill your basin with lukewarm water (around 30°C). Add a tiny amount of mild soap—just a few drops. Swish the water to mix. Place your cross stitch in the water and let it soak for 15 minutes. Gently agitate the fabric with your fingers. Do not rub or wring. If there's a stain, like my coffee incident, apply a dab of soap directly and let it sit for 5 minutes. Rinse under cool running water until no soap remains. Never use hot water; it can set stains and bleed colors [2].

Pro tip: Always test for colorfastness first. Dampen a cotton swab with water and touch it to each thread color. If color transfers, don't wash—spot clean only.

Step 2: Removing Excess Water

Lay one clean white towel flat on a counter. Place your wet cross stitch face down on the towel. Cover with the second towel. Press down gently with your hands to absorb excess water. Do not twist or wring the fabric. Let it air dry for 1-2 hours until damp, not dripping. I once tried to speed this up with a hairdryer—big mistake. The heat distorted the stitches. So, patience is key. After drying, your piece should be slightly damp for pressing.

Pro tip: If your fabric is heavily wrinkled, you can roll it in a towel and gently squeeze to remove more water before air drying.

Step 3: Pressing Your Cross Stitch

Set your iron to the cotton setting (around 200°C). Place your damp cross stitch face down on a clean white towel on your ironing board. Cover with a pressing cloth. Press the iron gently onto the cloth, holding for 5-10 seconds. Lift and move. Do not slide the iron. Repeat until the fabric is dry and smooth. For stubborn wrinkles, lightly mist with water and press again. Always press from the back to avoid flattening stitches. I learned this after ruining a piece by ironing directly on the front—the stitches became flat and lifeless.

Pro tip: Use a seam ripper or your fingers to gently fluff up stitches that got flattened. Just run the tip under the threads.

Step 4: Preparing for Framing

Cut a piece of acid-free mounting board to fit your frame. For a 20 cm x 25 cm frame, cut the board to 19.5 cm x 24.5 cm. Cut a piece of batting the same size. Center your cross stitch over the batting and board. The fabric should extend at least 2.5 cm on all sides. If it's too small, you can sew on a fabric border. Fold the excess fabric to the back and pin in place with stainless steel pins. Pull gently to keep the design centered. Check the front periodically to ensure straightness.

Pro tip: Use a T-square or ruler to align the design with the board edges. I use a quilting ruler for accuracy.

Step 5: Lacing and Framing

Thread a needle with strong thread (e.g., DMC Pearl Cotton size 5) and lace the fabric on the back in a zigzag pattern. Start at the top edge, go down to the bottom, and repeat, pulling snugly. This prevents sagging. For a 20 cm height, use about 1 meter of thread. Knot securely. Place the mounted piece into your frame. If using glass, ensure it doesn't touch the stitches. I prefer acrylic glazing for safety. Secure the backing. Your piece is now ready to display.

Pro tip: Add a dust cover (kraft paper) to the back of the frame to keep out dust and insects. I use Lineco dust cover paper.

Finishing a cross stitch can feel daunting, but with these steps, you'll get a professional result. I've framed over 50 pieces using this method, and each one looks gallery-ready. Remember, the key is gentle handling and patience. Now, which photo will you stitch next? Whatever your idea, we are here to help.

Sources

💡 Try it yourself: Download our free Free Cross Stitch Pattern: Butterfly pattern and practice this technique.

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Claire Moreau — Fondatrice de Flossize

Passionnée de point de croix depuis 8 ans, Claire transforme vos photos en grilles personnalisées. Elle partage ici ses conseils et astuces pour vous aider à créer des motifs uniques.

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